Category Archives: Gardening

By Jolie Donohue

Spring has sprung full force in Portland. In May we are itching to fill up the edible garden for our summer harvest. Tomatoes are a favorite of gardeners everywhere. One of my all time favorite garden quotes comes from public radio show host Mike McGrath “Everybody wants to grow tomatoes. Tomatoes are the gate way drug to all of gardening.”

Lest we get too eager to start planting tomatoes, here are some tips for successful growing in Portland:

• Tomatoes like warm weather. They need consistent minimal night temperatures of 55 degrees. In Portland this is typically between May 15-June 1. Planting your tomatoes too early will result in stunted or dead plants.
• Tomatoes like warm soil. They need consistent soil temperatures of 60 degrees. • Plant your tomatoes into the garden by transplants/start s. Portland does not have a long enough or hot enough summer to facilitate direct seeding tomatoes. If you want to start tomatoes by seed start seeds indoors in mid-February.
• Tomatoes need a full sun location, ideally south facing, where they receive 8-10 hours a day of sun. They will not set fruit in shady areas.
• Tomatoes are “heavy feeders ” and appreciate being planted with an organic granular fertilizer, which will slow release to your plants through out the season.
• Tomatoes are prone to blossom end rot. To prevent the disease blossom end rot, add a calcium source into the planting hole, such as a spoonful each of rock phosphate or bone meal and lime.
• Tomatoes have very long root systems (3-4 feet) and they ne ed plenty of room to grow. Make sure your planting bed is deep enough for the tomato’s roots.
• Tomatoes are big plants and need proper spacing to thrive. Give the plants plenty of space between each other, at least 4 feet wide per plant.
• Tomatoes need support. They have dense branches laden wit h heavy fruit. Install a tomato cage or other support system at planting time to preven t later damage to your plant.
• Tomatoes don’t need a lot of water. Be consistent with a deep watering a few times per week throughout the growing season. Inconsistent watering c ontributes to fruit splitting and blossom end rot.
• Tomato plants take several months to produce in Portland. Expect your harvest to begin in late August and end in October when cold temperatures ha ve set in.
• Rotate your crops. Do not grow your tomatoes in the same place every year. This will create disease and pest problems. Use a 4-year rotation for all edible crops.

For more information visit www.jolieanndonohue.com

By Jolie Donohue, The Gardening Goddess

Herbs have a variety of uses including culinary, medicinal and spiritual. Generally herbs are defined as any plant used for flavoring, food, medicine or perfume.

Culinary use typically distinguishes herbs from spices based on the part of the plant that is used. An herb refers to plants used for their green leafy parts—either fresh or dried.

A spice is a culinary product from another part of the plant such as seeds, berries, bark, roots and fruits. Some plants are used both as herbs and spices, such as dill weed and dill seed or cilantro leaves and coriander seeds.

Many herbs are beautiful as ornamental plants in the garden. In addition to their fragrance, herbs have a wide variety of colors, textures and shapes to delight all the senses.

Growth habits of some common culinary herbs are:

• Evergreen woody perennials: bay laurel, lavender, rosemary, and lemon verbena
• Evergreen perennials: thyme
• Herbaceous perennials: bee balm, chives, fennel, lovage, mints, oregano, roman chamomile, sage, tarragon.
• Biennials: angelica and parsley
• Annuals: basil, chervil, cilantro, dill, and German chamomile

Most herbs prefer well-drained soil and need full sun, 6-8 hours a day. Direct sunlight is needed to achieve maximum flavor and fragrance. Herbs grown in the shade become leggy and lack intense flavor. Some herbs that can be grown in partial shade are mints, lemon balm, chervil and wintergreen. Some herbs that can be grown in full shade are angelica, sweet woodruff and yerba buena.

Notorious for thriving in poor soil, most herbs do not need much fertilizer. Watering depends on the season, the location, and the type of herb. In the warm dry weather of summer, herbs grown in containers dry out more quickly than herbs grown in the ground. Once established, most herbs are quite drought tolerant.

Pinching back new growth as it emerges will develop a bushier growth habit and a fuller appearance for basil, and most other herbs. Herbs that develop into a woody shrub, like rosemary or lavender, can be pruned after flowering. Herbaceous perennials like mints, bee balm, and sage can be cut back to a few inches above the soil during the winter.

Harvest fresh herbs as needed for cooking. Morning is the best time to harvest herbs, as that’s when they have the most flavors. Leaves have the highest levels of oils when the blooms just begin to appear.

To dry herbs, hang small bunches from the ceiling in a dry, dark location with good ventilation for one to two weeks. Store dried herbs in a clean sealed glass jar in a cool dark place. Consider making herbal pesto and freezing in an ice cube tray. These make great winter additions to soups, stews, sauces, and salad dressing.